If you live in Colorado Springs and want your sprinkler system to survive winter without cracked pipes and surprise repair bills, you need to blow the water out of the lines before deep freezes hit. That is really what people mean when they talk about Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization.
There are a few different ways to prepare a sprinkler system for winter, but in this area compressed air blowouts are the standard. Some homeowners try to drain lines by gravity alone. I have yet to see that work well here over several winters in a row.
This guide walks through what you should know, how the process works, what tools you need, and when it makes sense to call a sprinkler company instead of wrestling with it yourself.
Why winterization matters so much in Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs has dry air, but that does not help your sprinkler lines much. Winters swing from mild to very cold. You can have a 55 degree afternoon followed by a hard freeze that night. That rapid change is rough on buried plastic.
Water left in your system expands when it freezes. Pipes, fittings, and backflow preventers do not like that. They crack, split, or start leaking slowly where you cannot see it right away.
If water stays in your sprinkler lines over winter, you are basically gambling with pipe breaks once temperatures drop below 32°F, especially after long cold snaps.
Some homeowners think the lines are safe because they are below the frost line. In Colorado Springs, parts of your system are not. For example:
- The backflow preventer or vacuum breaker near your house
- Exposed copper or PVC risers near walls or along the foundation
- Shallow lateral lines in raised beds or new lawns
- Drip lines in mulch or rock
Also, many systems were installed at different times by different people. One zone may be buried 12 inches deep, another only 4 inches. So you might get away with skipping winterization one year, then the next year you face busted parts and a soggy yard in spring.
When you should winterize in Colorado Springs
This is one of those topics where people argue a bit. Some neighbors shut down their system in late September. Others run sprinklers until the first snow actually sticks.
A practical window for Colorado Springs is usually late September through late October. I would not push it much into November unless you watch the weather closely and are comfortable taking a risk.
Weather signs that it is time to act
Watch for these signs that you should probably schedule or do your blowout soon:
- Overnight lows are dipping into the mid 20s more than once a week
- Daytime highs stay in the 40s and low 50s for several days
- There is a forecast of a strong cold front with lows in the teens
- The first hard frost has already hit your area
A single light frost usually will not break buried pipes, but above ground parts are more exposed. Also, weather forecasts here swing fast. If you wait for the “perfect” weekend, you might miss your chance.
If you are unsure whether to do it this weekend or the next one, your safest move in Colorado Springs is to do it sooner.
Know your sprinkler system before you start
You do not need to be an expert, but you should at least know what kind of system you own. That affects what valves you shut off and where you connect the air compressor.
Main pieces of a typical Colorado Springs sprinkler system
Most residential systems in the area include:
- A main shutoff valve inside the house or in a pit near the foundation
- A backflow preventer or vacuum breaker outside, often near the wall
- Zone valves (in a valve box in the yard) that control each watering area
- Sprinkler heads or drip emitters in each zone
- A controller or timer in the garage, basement, or outside
If you do not know where your main shutoff is, try tracing the pipe from the backflow into the house. Sometimes there is a smaller shutoff just for irrigation, separate from the house main. It is usually near the water meter or in the mechanical room.
Tools and supplies you need for a proper blowout
Before you touch any valves, gather what you need. There is nothing worse than half-winterizing and then realizing you are missing a key fitting.
| Item | Purpose | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Air compressor | Push water out of lines | Prefer 5+ CFM at 50–80 PSI for typical yards |
| Air hose | Connect compressor to system | Check for leaks and length |
| Adapter/fitting | Connect air hose to sprinkler system | Often a quick-connect or threaded adapter |
| Adjustable wrench | Open and close valves | For stubborn or older fittings |
| Flat-head screwdriver | Bleed screws, drain valves | Backflow preventer and small drain cocks |
| Safety glasses | Protect eyes from debris or water | Strongly recommended, especially near heads |
| Gloves | Grip cold metal and wet parts | Helpful but not required |
Many homeowners try using a small pancake compressor from a garage. Those units can work for small zones, but they usually do not push enough air for bigger yards. You might end up running them for a very long time, which can overheat the compressor. I am not saying it never works, just that it is not ideal.
Step-by-step sprinkler winterization process
This is where things get more involved. Take your time. Rushing winterization can cause as many problems as skipping it.
Step 1: Shut off the water supply to the sprinkler system
Find the main irrigation shutoff valve. It is usually:
- Near your home’s main water line, inside the house
- In a dedicated irrigation box near the foundation
- Near the water meter, sometimes in a separate pit
Turn that valve to the off position. If it is a ball valve, the handle will be at a 90 degree angle to the pipe when it is off.
Do not confuse your house main valve with the irrigation shutoff. If you close the wrong one, you might cut water to the whole house. That is annoying but not dangerous. Still, it wastes time.
Step 2: Turn your sprinkler controller to “off” or “rain mode”
This part is easy to forget. Flip your controller to an off setting so it will not try to water during or after the blowout.
Many modern controllers have a “rain” or “off” mode that keeps your schedule saved. Others require you to turn a dial to “off” or switch it to “system off”. Check your manual if you are not sure.
Do not unplug the controller unless the manual suggests it. Just make sure it will not run zones while you are blowing out lines.
Step 3: Attach the air compressor to the sprinkler system
There are a few common connection points:
- A quick-connect fitting on the sprinkler line near the backflow
- A threaded cap on a zone manifold or blowout port
- A hose spigot that is tied into the irrigation line
Screw or snap your adapter into the system, then attach your air hose. Make sure it is snug but do not overtighten plastic threads. They crack more easily in cold weather.
Set the compressor regulator to a safe pressure. Many sprinkler components are rated around 50–80 PSI. I would stay near the lower end of that range for older systems.
Step 4: Open a sprinkler zone and start blowing out
You should only open one zone at a time. If you run air through too many zones at once, the pressure drops and water will not clear well.
You can open a zone in two ways:
- Use the controller to manually run Zone 1
- Open the valve manually at the valve box (usually by turning a solenoid or bleed screw)
Once one zone is open, start the compressor slowly. Let air flow until you see sprinkler heads popping up and water blowing out.
Do not blast full air pressure from the start. Let lines fill and water start to clear, then adjust pressure if you need more force. If heads are chattering, bouncing violently, or making strange high-pitched noises, the pressure is likely too high.
Step 5: Watch the zone until only air comes out
Most zones need a minute or two, sometimes more, before they clear. At first, you get a lot of water. Then spurts of water and air. Then mostly air with a bit of mist.
You are done with a zone when there is mostly air and maybe light mist coming from the heads for 20–30 seconds in a row, with no heavy slugs of water.
Once that happens, shut off that zone and open the next one. Repeat until all zones have been blown out.
Some people like to run each zone twice, especially for low spots where water gathers. That is not always needed, but if your yard has noticeable dips and slopes, a second pass can help clear pockets.
Dealing with different types of zones
Not every zone behaves the same way during a blowout. The head type and layout matters more than most people expect.
Spray head zones
These are the smaller heads that pop up and spray in a fan pattern over short distances. They tend to clear quickly because they use more water per minute.
- Expect lots of water at first
- Watch for muddy spots forming at heads
- Give them a bit more time if they are on slopes
Rotor zones
Rotors shoot water in rotating streams across larger areas. They use less water per head, so lines may take longer to empty.
- Let each rotor make several full turns
- Watch for spurts of water from the side streams
- Do not crank pressure too high just because flow looks lower
Drip irrigation zones
Drip lines and micro-sprayers are tricky. Many pros lower the air pressure further for these zones, since they are more delicate.
- Use lower pressure, closer to 30–40 PSI
- Expect less dramatic water spray
- Walk the area and listen for hissing or small bursts
If your drip system has manual drain valves at the end of runs, you can open those and let water drain by gravity as a backup. It is rarely a full replacement for air, but it helps.
Protecting your backflow preventer and above-ground parts
Even with a blowout, you still need to pay attention to the backflow assembly and the short runs of pipe above ground. These parts sit in the cold air and feel the freeze first.
Drain and position the backflow valves
Most backflow preventers for sprinklers have two ball valves and some small test ports.
Typical steps:
- Turn both ball valves to a 45 degree angle. This leaves them half open.
- Open the small test ports with a screwdriver to let water drip out.
- Let the backflow sit a few minutes so trapped water can drain.
Leaving the valves half open helps water expand without cracking parts if a small amount is still inside.
Add insulation for extra protection
Many homeowners in Colorado Springs use insulation covers on their backflow assembly. These are often made of foam or padded material.
- Slip a cover over the backflow and secure it snugly
- Do not wrap with plastic that traps moisture directly on metal
- If you use towels or old blankets, keep them dry and replace if they get soaked
I have seen people skip insulation after a few mild winters. Then a harsh cold snap hits and the backflow splits along a seam. That is an annoying repair in early spring.
What about gravity draining instead of blowouts?
Every year someone says they just drain their system without air and it works fine. Sometimes they are telling the truth for their specific yard, depth, and luck with weather.
Still, gravity alone often leaves pockets of water in low spots, under sidewalks, and in long horizontal runs. In a place with regular hard freezes, that is not ideal.
If you want to add gravity draining as extra help, here is what you can do:
- Shut off the water supply
- Open manual drain valves at the lowest points
- Open all zone valves to let air into the system
- Wait for water to stop dripping from drains
This can reduce the amount of water that the compressor has to push, which is fine. I would not rely on gravity alone for most Colorado Springs yards unless the system is built perfectly for it, and very deep, which is rare.
Common mistakes homeowners make during winterization
You can do almost everything right and still run into small issues. Here are some of the more common ones that show up in spring.
Using air pressure that is too high
People sometimes think more pressure means a better blowout. It does not. It just adds stress to pipes and seals.
- Too much pressure can cause heads to crack or seals to fail
- It can blow fittings off in valve boxes
- It may damage drip lines or small micro-sprayers
Stick with moderate pressure, even if it takes a bit longer.
Leaving some zones unblown
This sounds obvious, but it happens. You get interrupted, or a zone does not run from the controller, and you forget about it.
Before you pack up, run through a mental checklist:
- Zone 1: Done
- Zone 2: Done
- Zone 3: Done
- And so on
If any zone will not activate from the controller, try opening it manually from the valve box, then blow it out that way.
Not draining the short segment inside the house
Some systems have a short length of pipe between the main irrigation shutoff and the wall that is still exposed to cold. There may be a small drain valve on that section.
After you shut off water, open that small drain and keep a bucket or towel handy. A cup or two of water often comes out. That little step can prevent an indoor leak later.
Should you do your own sprinkler winterization or hire a pro?
This is where opinions vary. Some homeowners enjoy the process and feel comfortable with tools. Others would rather pay a company and not think about it.
Reasons to do it yourself
- You already own a strong air compressor
- Your system is small and easy to access
- You are comfortable working with valves and controls
- You want to save money over many seasons
Over several years, a DIY approach can reduce costs. But you need to be honest about your own skill and patience level. Rushing or guessing your way through can cause spring repairs that erase those savings.
Reasons to hire a sprinkler company
- You have a large or complex system with many zones
- The backflow or valves are hard to access or confusing
- You do not own the right compressor and fittings
- You prefer having a record that a pro serviced the system
Many local companies offer seasonal packages where they winterize in fall and start up in spring. That level of service is not for everyone, but some homeowners appreciate not having to schedule every year.
How to know your system is actually winterized
You finish blowing out lines, you close valves, and you step back. How can you tell if you did enough to protect the system?
Simple checks before cold sets in
- Each zone ran with air long enough to produce mostly air and mist, not heavy water
- The main irrigation shutoff is fully closed
- The backflow test ports and ball valves are left partially open or at 45 degrees
- Any low-point drains you opened were closed again after draining
- Your controller is turned off or in rain mode
After a deep freeze or two, walk the yard on a mild day and look for any new wet spots or soggy soil where pipes run. That can be an early hint of a crack, even before spring use.
What happens if you skip winterization one year?
Sometimes life gets busy. Maybe you moved, maybe the compressor broke, or maybe you just decided not to worry about it. People ask if one missed season is a guaranteed disaster.
The honest answer is that results vary, but the odds are not in your favor.
- Pipes can crack underground but not leak much until spring
- Backflow preventers often fail first, since they are exposed
- Small leaks can go unnoticed and raise your water bill later
The most common damage after a skipped winterization is a broken backflow assembly and a few damaged heads near walkways or shallow trenches. Those repairs cost more than a typical blowout visit would have.
How spring startup connects to what you did in fall
Good winterization makes spring startup easier. When you turn water back on in April or May, the system should pressurize smoothly with no geysers or strange noises.
If you notice any of these in spring, it may point back to an incomplete fall blowout:
- Water spraying from the side of a pipe or fitting in a valve box
- Leaks around the backflow preventer body or test ports
- Several heads in one zone refusing to pop up at normal pressure
That does not always mean you did everything wrong, but it can signal that some water stayed behind in a low spot or tight bend.
Frequently asked questions about sprinkler winterization in Colorado Springs
Do I really need an air compressor, or can I just run each zone until it is dry?
Running zones with water does not clear water from the pipes. It just cycles fresh water in. Without air, there will still be water sitting in the lines. In this climate, using an air compressor is the safer approach for most systems.
Can I share a compressor with a neighbor?
Yes, that is actually a practical way to reduce cost. Just make sure you give yourself enough time so you are not rushing because someone else is waiting. Let the compressor cool between yards if it is working hard.
Is it bad if some mist keeps coming out of a zone forever?
A little mist is normal, but if a zone never seems to stabilize, you may be pushing air through an open drain or a break. Double-check that only one zone is open at a time, and confirm any manual drains are closed once you are done using them.
What if my backflow is already old or corroded?
If the backflow body or valves look worn, exercise a bit more care. Do not force stuck handles. You might want a sprinkler company or a plumber to inspect it. Sometimes winter is the season when old parts finally give out when exposed to more stress.
Can I winterize after the first big freeze?
You can, and many people end up doing that, but there is more risk. Some damage may already have happened, especially to exposed parts. It is still worth blowing out the rest of the water so that ongoing cold does not keep pushing on the system.
What if I am only renting the house?
If you rent, ask your landlord or property manager who is responsible for winterization. Do not assume someone else is handling it. Document what you see. A short email with photos of the backflow and shutoff valve can protect both you and the owner from confusion later.
Is there any reason not to winterize?
The only real argument against winterization would be if the system is already abandoned or in such poor shape that you plan to replace it fully. In all normal cases, winterization is less trouble than dealing with avoidable repairs in spring.
What is one simple habit that makes this whole process easier each year?
Keep a small notebook or a note on your phone with:
- Where the main shutoff is
- Where you connect the compressor
- The order of your zones by area (front lawn, back lawn, drip beds, etc.)
- Any quirks or problems you saw this season
Next fall, you will not have to remember all those small details again. That one habit removes a lot of stress from sprinkler winterization in Colorado Springs.