If you want your brickwork to look good and stay solid for decades, you need three things: a stable base, the right mortar mix, and bricks laid in straight, level courses with full joints. That is really the heart of good masonry. A lot of the rest is patience, clean habits, and knowing when to stop and fix something before it gets worse. At GK Construction Solutions, we try to stick to those basics every single day, and I think that is where most homeowners and newer masons either succeed or struggle.
If you want a deeper guide on masonry and overall structure quality, you can also look at https://www.gkconstructionsolutions.com/, but I will walk through what we actually do in the field, step by step, in a more practical way here.
Why brickwork quality matters more than people think
Brickwork often looks simple from the outside. Bricks stacked in straight lines, some mortar, and that is it. But when something is off, you notice it every time you walk past the wall. A wavy line. Joints that crack after one winter. Bricks that soak water and start to crumble on the corners.
There are three main reasons you should care about how your masonry is done, even if you are not the one laying the bricks:
- Your house depends on it for stability and moisture control.
- Bad work usually costs more to fix than to do right the first time.
- Brickwork is always visible, so mistakes are hard to hide.
Good masonry is boring to look at in the best way. Straight lines, even joints, no drama, and no surprises.
I have walked onto jobs where someone tried to rush a brick veneer in a weekend. By Monday, the wall leaned out, the joints were already hairline cracked, and the customer thought it was just “settling.” It was not. It was poor layout and poor mortar handling. That kind of thing makes the whole trade look bad, to be honest.
Preparing for a brick project the way a pro would
Most of the problems we see in brickwork do not come from the last course of bricks. They come from the first hour of planning and setup. If you rush that part, you chase problems the entire project.
Know what you are building and why
This sounds obvious, but it is not always clear. Ask yourself:
- Is this structural, like a load bearing wall, or is it veneer on a framed wall?
- Is it exposed to freezing weather, heavy rain, or direct sun most of the day?
- Do you care more about strength, looks, or low maintenance? It can be all three, but not every brick or mortar mix suits every goal equally.
For example, a garden wall that holds back soil needs stronger footing and better drainage than a small decorative pier by your front walk. Yet people often treat them the same way.
Choose the right brick and mortar type
Bricks are not all equal. They vary in strength, how much water they absorb, and how they handle frost. Mortar is similar. It comes in different types, and using the hardest mortar is not always the best idea.
| Mortar Type | Common Use | Relative Strength | Typical Application |
|---|---|---|---|
| Type N | General above grade walls | Medium | Exterior walls, veneers, chimneys in mild climates |
| Type S | Stronger, for more load | High | Below grade walls, retaining walls, patios, foundations |
| Type O | Low strength | Low | Interior, historic repairs where flexibility matters |
| Type M | Very strong | Very High | Heavy loads, stone walls, foundations with high pressure |
For most brick walls above grade, we use Type N. For retaining walls and areas that see more stress, we lean to Type S. Type M is stronger, but it can be too stiff compared to softer brick, so the brick ends up cracking instead of the joint. That tradeoff surprises people.
A simple rule we follow: your mortar should usually be weaker than your brick, so if something moves, the joint cracks and can be repaired, not the brick itself.
Plan the layout before you open a single bag
Dry laying a few bricks on the ground feels slow, but it helps you see where cuts will land, how the pattern will look at corners, and if your wall length works cleanly with the brick size. This is where bond patterns matter.
Common patterns we use:
- Running bond: basic staggered pattern, most common, good for walls and veneers.
- Stack bond: bricks stacked directly above one another. Looks modern but is weaker and usually treated as decorative.
- Flemish or English bond: alternating stretchers and headers. Strong, more traditional look, usually on higher end work.
I have seen homeowners start a wall with a running bond, then realize halfway that the corner layout looks odd and try to switch patterns. That almost never works cleanly. You end up with strange joints and the wall looks confused. Planning avoids that.
Building a solid base and footing
No brickwork tip matters if your foundation is weak. Bricks hate movement. If the ground shifts, your wall will crack. Simple as that.
Footing basics
For most free standing brick walls or structural walls, you need a concrete footing below frost depth, wide enough to spread the load. Local code will define depth and width, but in practical terms we aim for:
- Depth below frost line in your area.
- Width at least 2 times the wall thickness.
- Rebar in the footing for strength, especially for taller walls.
For veneers tied to a framed wall, you still want a brick ledge or support from the foundation or a proper angle iron for support. Laying bricks directly on soil or thin slab pieces is just asking for cracks.
Drainage and backfill
Water is the silent enemy. It softens soil, freezes, expands, and moves your footing a little each year. We often add:
- Gravel under and around footings or behind retaining walls.
- Drain tile or weep holes to let water out.
- Proper grading so water flows away from the wall.
If a brick retaining wall has no drainage, it will look fine for a short time, then slowly bulge. I have seen walls with beautiful brickwork that failed only because someone skipped basic water management.
Mixing and handling mortar the smart way
Mortar is simple: sand, cement, lime, and water. But the small details matter. Too wet, and your joints are weak and messy. Too dry, and you struggle to fill joints and the bricks do not bond well.
Consistent mix
We usually follow the bag instructions but keep the mix consistent from batch to batch. That means using the same amount of water, measured with a bucket, not by guess. If the mortar color changes mid wall, you will see it once it dries.
A helpful check: scoop mortar on your trowel, tilt it slightly. It should hold its shape, slump a bit, but not run off. If it runs, it is too wet. If it sits like dry sand, add a bit of water.
Good mortar should feel sticky but not soupy. If it feels like oatmeal, you are close. If it feels like soup, you went too far.
Working time and weather
Mortar has a pot life. On warm days, it can go off faster. On cool days, it sits longer. Try to mix only what you can use in about an hour. Re tempering with a little water once is usually fine. Constantly adding water to old mortar weakens it.
Weather also changes how you work:
- Hot, dry days: bricks suck water fast. Pre wet them lightly or your mortar can dry before it bonds.
- Cold days: avoid freezing conditions. If mortar freezes before it cures, you lose strength.
- Rain: cover your work. Water on fresh joints leaves stains and washes out fine lines.
Laying bricks: the method we actually use on site
Everyone has a slightly different rhythm when laying brick, but the core steps stay almost the same. Here is how we usually run a wall at GK Construction Solutions.
1. Set your lines and corners first
We always build the corners first. They act like guideposts. Once two corners are up a few courses, we run a mason line between them and lay the bricks to that line.
Corner steps:
- Check the footing for level along the first course.
- Lay the first corner bricks carefully, checking with a level and square.
- Stagger joints so vertical lines do not stack.
Patience here saves headaches later. If your corners are out, the whole wall is out. You can sometimes hide small issues in the middle of a run, but not at the ends.
2. Buttering bricks and setting them in place
For each brick, you usually:
- Spread a bed joint of mortar on the footing or course below, roughly 3/8 inch thick.
- Butter the head end of the brick with mortar.
- Press the brick into place against the previous one, wiggling slightly so the mortar spreads and the joint fills.
Check that each brick is level front to back and side to side, and also check alignment with the string line. Tap gently with the trowel handle to adjust. Do not overwork it, though. Constant tapping just squeezes mortar out and makes a mess.
3. Joint size and consistency
Most standard brickwork uses 3/8 inch joints. That gap gives enough room to adjust for small size differences between bricks. More than that starts to look sloppy, less than that is hard to manage with regular brick.
We keep a close eye on vertical joints lining up correctly and staying full. Partially filled joints are where water gets in, then you see efflorescence or cracking later.
4. Checking plumb and level often
Here is a habit newer masons sometimes skip. They lay 5 or 6 courses, then check level. By then, if it is off, they have a lot to fix. We check:
- Each course with a short level.
- Wall plumb at corners every 2 or 3 courses with a longer level.
- String line alignment along each run.
Small corrections early are easy. Large corrections later usually mean taking bricks down. No one likes that, but sometimes it is the only honest fix.
Joint finishing and appearance
The shape and finish of the joints change how the wall looks and how it sheds water. This is one area where personal taste and function meet.
Joint profiles
Common joint styles include:
| Joint Type | Appearance | Water Performance | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Concave | Indented, rounded | Very good | Most exterior walls, standard choice |
| V joint | Sharp V shape | Good | Decorative, visible walls |
| Flush | Flat with brick face | Fair | Interior or where wall is to be covered |
| Raked | Recessed, shadow line | Weaker to water | Modern look, but used with caution outside |
For most exterior work, we prefer a concave joint. It compresses the mortar slightly and sheds water well. Raked joints look sharp in photos, but the recess can hold water and dirt, so we avoid them on exposed walls unless the client insists and the wall design can handle it.
Timing your jointing
You joint bricks when the mortar has started to set but has not hardened. If you joint too early, the tool smears the mortar and pulls it out. If you joint too late, the surface crumbles instead of compressing.
A simple test: touch the mortar lightly with your fingertip. If it sticks badly, wait. If it feels firm and only picks up a slight dust, it is about right.
Keeping moisture under control
Water causes more long term brick damage than almost anything else. Not because brick hates water, but because trapped water freezes, expands, and pushes things apart. Also, constant dampness feeds mold on adjacent materials.
Weep holes and flashing
On brick veneers and cavity walls, we use:
- Weep holes at the base of the wall, spaced regularly.
- Flashing over windows, doors, and at transitions, to direct water to the exterior.
I know some homeowners dislike the look of weep holes and ask to close them. That is a mistake. They are not optional decoration. They let trapped water drain out and allow air to move behind the brick. Without them, moisture builds up in the cavity and finds its way indoors.
Sealants and breathable walls
People sometimes ask if they should seal their brick wall with a clear coating. My view is mixed. Some breathable sealers can help in harsh climates, but many products trap moisture inside the brick instead of letting it dry out. That can cause spalling in cold weather.
If your brick is good quality, laid with proper joints and good drainage, it usually does not need heavy surface sealers. Good design beats chemical fixes most days.
If you really want a sealer, look for one described as vapor permeable and test a small area first. Watch how it behaves for one full season before coating the whole wall.
Common mistakes in DIY brickwork and how to avoid them
Some homeowners do great work. Others run into the same issues again and again. Here are problems we see when we are called to fix or finish someone elses project.
1. No real footing or support
Laying bricks on a thin patio slab or packed soil might look fine for a few months. Then small cracks show, bricks tilt, and the wall starts to lean. If the wall is taller than a few bricks, take the footing seriously. If you are unsure about code, this is where a local mason or engineer is worth the fee.
2. Poor joint packing
Mortar only on the edges, hollow joints, or big gaps behind the brick face let water in. The wall might stand, but it will not age well. When you press a brick in, mortar should squeeze out a bit at the edges. If it does not, the joint is likely not full.
3. Ignoring control joints
Large runs of brick sometimes need movement joints, especially where the wall changes direction or meets a different material. Without them, the wall cracks at random points. Planning where the wall can move a little is better than leaving it to chance.
4. Cleaning the wall the wrong way
Concrete and brick cleaners are strong. Use them without care, and you can burn the brick face or streak the wall. We usually start with:
- Dry brushing or scraping excess mortar while it is still green.
- Gentle washing with water once the mortar has cured enough.
- Only then considering mild cleaning chemicals, diluted as directed, tested on a small area.
Pressure washers on full power are also risky. They can erode mortar joints, especially on older walls.
Matching new brickwork to old
Repair jobs can be harder than new work. Making new brick blend into an older wall is part art, part patience.
Brick and mortar color
We try to:
- Source bricks from the same manufacturer when possible.
- Order a mix of shades and blend them randomly in the wall, rather than using all of one color in one area.
- Adjust mortar color with pigments if needed, but carefully and with test panels.
Time also changes brick color. New sections often look slightly different, no matter how much you plan. That is normal. Over a few years, the contrast softens.
Joint style and tooling
If an old wall has a certain joint shape, we try to match it closely. Even if your new mortar color is close, a different joint profile will stand out. Take photos, study the old wall in good light, and practice the joint on a small test section.
Safety and basic sense on site
Masonry can be heavy work. People sometimes ignore safety because it feels like a small project, but injuries do not care about project size.
- Use proper lifting habits. Bricks add up in weight fast.
- Wear eye protection when cutting brick or mixing mortar.
- Keep your work area clear of loose tools and offcuts where you walk.
Honestly, the most common “safety issue” we see is just fatigue. When people get tired, they rush, stop checking level, and lift badly. Taking short breaks is not lazy. It keeps you accurate and protects your back and shoulders.
When to call a mason instead of doing it yourself
This part might sound self serving from a company that works in masonry, but I do not think every project needs a pro. Still, some jobs carry enough risk that hiring help makes sense.
You should think about working with a mason if:
- The wall is structural or supports floors or roofs.
- You are dealing with a retaining wall over about 3 or 4 feet high.
- The project involves chimneys, fireplaces, or anything exposed to high heat.
- You already see significant cracks in existing brickwork that you do not understand.
Cosmetic work, small garden walls, or short piers can be good DIY projects if you are patient. Structural repairs are another story. Guessing here can cost a lot more later.
Practical tips we use daily at GK Construction Solutions
To wrap the main ideas into some habits you can copy, here are a few things our crews do without thinking much about it anymore. You can use the same ideas on your own projects.
- Keep bricks stacked close to where you work so you are not walking far with each one.
- Use two levels: a short one for individual bricks and a longer one for wall sections.
- Clean mortar smears off brick faces as you go, not the next day.
- Cover fresh work at night if there is any chance of rain.
- Stop and fix a crooked course as soon as you see it instead of “letting it ride.”
None of this is fancy. It is just steady, careful work. That is also why really good brickwork can be hard to spot at first glance. It does not shout. It just stands there, year after year, without problems.
Questions we often hear about masonry brickwork
Q: Can I use leftover concrete mix instead of proper mortar for brick?
A: I would not recommend it. Concrete is stronger and less workable than mortar, and it does not bond or flex the same way. Joints made with straight concrete tend to crack at the edges or not fill well. Mortar is designed for brick joints. It is not just a weaker concrete; it behaves differently.
Q: How thick should my mortar joints really be?
A: For standard modular brick, about 3/8 inch for both bed and head joints is the norm. That size gives you some room to adjust for small changes in brick size and keeps the look uniform. Thicker joints start to draw attention away from the brick and can shrink more as they dry.
Q: Is hairline cracking in mortar normal?
A: Small surface checks can happen as mortar dries, especially on hot or windy days. As long as the joint is full and the crack is only on the surface, it usually is not a structural problem. Wider cracks that you can fit a fingernail into, or cracks that run in a straight line through several bricks, are more serious and worth having someone look at.
Q: Should I repaint or “cover” ugly brickwork?
A: Paint can hide color issues, but it also changes how brick handles moisture and tends to peel over time. If the brick structure is sound but looks bad, sometimes repointing the mortar and cleaning carefully brings it back. If the layout is very poor, partial rebuilding might be better than covering it. I would only paint brick if you are ready to maintain that painted surface in the long run.
Q: How long should quality brickwork last?
A: With decent materials, good drainage, and proper joints, exterior brickwork can last several decades with only light maintenance, sometimes far longer. You might need repointing of the mortar at some point, especially in harsh climates, but the wall itself should not need constant repair. If you are seeing major issues after only a few years, something in the design or installation was off.
Q: If I am just starting, what is one thing I should focus on first?
A: Focus on straight, level, and plumb work before you worry about speed. Lay fewer bricks, but lay them right. Watch your first course especially. If that is true, the rest of the wall goes easier. If the base is wrong, you fight the wall the whole way up.